Fashion
How to Thrift Clothes Well: An Inspection Checklist
Secondhand clothing is good value only when you check what most buyers skip.
Thrifting is good value when you inspect each piece before paying. Check seams, closures, stains, knit condition, fabric content, fit in the shoulders, the hem and whether the colour works with your wardrobe. Shoes need the soles and insoles checked too.
Why thrifting needs a method
Secondhand shopping can be excellent value, but it is also full of pieces that look better on the rail than they will at home. Under store lights, a stain disappears and a seam looks intact. The fix is a routine: the same ten checks, every time, before you decide.
The checklist below works for clothing and shoes. Keep it on your phone or print it. The ticks are saved in your browser only, so you can leave the page and come back to it while you are still in the shop.
Use the checklist in the shop
Thrift inspection checklist
Your ticks are saved in this browser only, so you can pick the list up later.
Check the construction
Seams. Pull gently at the underarms, the crotch and the side seams of trousers. Fabric that is fraying or puckering along a seam will not last without repair, and repair costs can erase the saving.
Closures. Test every zip, button and snap. A zip that catches or a missing button is a small job, but it is one more cost to add to the price before you buy.
Hems. Check whether the hem is original and whether there is enough fabric to let it down. Many vintage pieces have a fold line that can be adjusted, and that is worth knowing before you say no.
Check the condition
Look closely at the collar, the underarms and the cuffs, where sweat and oil stain fabric and do not always come out. Hold the piece up to the light to see yellowing or thin patches. Smell the fabric as well: an odour of smoke or mildew is hard to remove completely.
Knitwear needs particular attention. Light pilling is normal and can be removed with a comb. Heavy pilling, thin patches at the elbows and stretched cuffs mean the piece has reached the end of its useful life.
Check the fit and the fabric
Shoulders are the hardest part of a garment to alter, so check them first. The seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, not sliding down your arm or pulling across your back. Sleeves and body length can often be changed, but a jacket that does not fit at the shoulder usually cannot.
Read the label. Natural fibres such as wool, cotton and linen suit most seasons, but they can also shrink. Synthetic blends can look good and last well, but check that they suit the season and that the fabric does not feel cheap against your skin.
Check the colour and the wardrobe fit
Before you buy, hold the piece against three things you already own. If it does not sit comfortably with any of them, it will stay in the back of the wardrobe. A colour that matches your base is far more useful than a unique piece you can wear once.
Use the capsule wardrobe guide to check whether the item fills a real gap in your closet.
Shoes need extra checks
Soles and heels. Look at the heel tip, the sole edge and the rubber at the front. Worn heel tips can be replaced, but a sole that is coming apart is a repair you should price in.
Insoles. Remove the insole if you can. Check for odour, damp or crumbling padding. Replacing insoles is an inexpensive fix that can make a good secondhand pair comfortable.
Inside lining. Look for cracks, peeling or stains that could make the shoe uncomfortable or give it a poor finish.
Price it correctly
A secondhand price is not automatically a bargain. Compare it with the cost of the same item new, the cost of any repair, and the number of times you will wear it. The cost per wear guide explains how to turn that comparison into a single number.
If the total cost, including repair, is still low and the item fits your wardrobe, it is a good buy. If not, leave it.
A worked example: one trip to the shop
Suppose you have an hour and a list with two items: a warm knit and a pair of smart shoes. You walk into a secondhand shop and find a chunky cream jumper, a pair of brown leather loafers and a wool coat that is not on your list.
Start with the jumper. Check the seams at the underarms and the cuffs, and look for pilling at the elbows. It passes, and the colour works with three things you own. Next, the loafers. Check the soles and the heel tips, then remove the insoles. The soles have good tread, but the insole is cracked, which means a new insole is a small extra cost. Factor that in before you decide.
The coat is tempting, but it is not on your list, and its shoulder seam sits too far down your arm. The checklist makes the decision for you. You leave it behind. You buy the jumper and the loafers, with a new insole in your bag, and you have spent less than you would have on new versions of either item.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to try on thrifted clothes?
Most secondhand shops allow you to try on clothes in a fitting room. Use it. Wear a close-fitting layer if you can, so the fit is accurate.
How do I clean a thrifted piece?
Check the care label first and wash at a low temperature, or take it to a professional cleaner if the fabric is delicate. Wash new secondhand clothing separately for the first time, in case dye runs.
Can I return a thrifted item?
Usually not. Most secondhand sales are final, so the checklist is your protection. Check it before you pay.
Keep going
For more guidance on making secondhand purchases fit a plan, read the capsule wardrobe guide and the sales shopping tips.
